Milos is magical. Still unspoiled by mass tourism, the southernmost of the Cyclades islands is an oasis of rustic calm and wild beauty. It has everything we could ask for in a Greek vacation. Once the resting place of the Venus the Milo, an icon of classical beauty, you will find whitewashed fishing villages, surreal coastal landscapes, golden sand beaches, and a timeless peaceful atmosphere to experience the Mediterranean lifestyle at its rawest.
Beach hopping through the northeast coast
Formed around a central caldera, Milos’s coastline offers more than 70 beaches to discover. White sandy beaches, black pebble beaches, beaches you can only get to by boat, and beaches that will blow your mind away. Take a couple of days to explore the north of the island. From the charming Firopotamos to the cliffs and caves of Papafragas, each beach is unique, and we loved them all – Mytakas and its fishing houses, Pachena and its pristine waters. People still plan their beach day based on the direction of the wind, so when the Meltemi winds blow, move your plans to the southern coast.
Sarakiniko: the sunny side of the moon
This former pirate hideaway is by far one of the most striking landscapes of Milos. With its undulating chalky white volcanic surface contrasting with the deep blue colour of the sea and sky, Sarakiniko stands out as an otherworldly setting. There’s a beautiful, yet small, sand beach, but also rock pools, and underwater caves; cliffs, tunnels, hidden canyons, and oddly-shaped rock formations carved and smoothed by centuries of waves and winds. The right side is mostly for
exploration, the left side is for swimming and diving. Get up early for the best light and a chance to discover it alone.
Catch the sunset at Plaka
It’s always a great idea to spend an evening in Plaka, Milos’ oldest and main village. Located on the top of a hill, it’s a cluster of narrow streets and white-washed houses with blue doors and shutters and exuberant bougainvillea. You will find an archeological museum, a folklore museum, and even a sand museum where you could discover the past of the island before heading to the church for one of the best sunsets in Milos, with spectacular panoramic views overlooking the island, all the shades of blue in the Aegean sea, and the blood-orange setting sun.
Wake up to the sound of waves We found the perfect place to stay in Skinopi, a little bay with a small fishing port enveloped by multicolored houses along the rocks. They call them syrmata, and they mark a tradition from the past, when families used to paint their doors and terraces in different colours to distinguish the house from others when they returned from fishing. And there we slept, in a small syrmata with our private stairs to the Aegean. Perfect for an amazing sunset and the best evening swim.
Greek dinner in the most authentic way
Located just outside Adamas, the main port of Milos, Oh Hamos Tavern is a former butcher shop is now a family-run quaint tavern with an enchanting garden patio. Every dish on the menu is just delicious, as the they cook with fresh produce sourced from the family farm in the island’s verdant Halakas mountains. The slow-baked lamb spiced with local herbs and sour goat cheese is one of the best in the island, and the grilled manouri goat cheese seasoned with fresh pepper and thyme it’s just unbeatable.
Charming fishing houses in Firopotamos. / A swimming cave between the cliffs of Papafragas.
The otherworldly landscape of Sarakiniko is one of Milo's main attractions, and probably one of the most surreal beaches we've ever been to. Its name comes from the Saracen pirates who would hide their boats under the white undulating cliffs.
The smooth surface of Sarakiniko is made from white volcanic diatomite and pumice. / Organic shapes have been sculpted by centuries of waves and winds.
The most beautiful sunset from Plaka. / There are several traditional taverns in Plaka.
Stairway to the Aegean in Skinopi. / A syrmata is a traditional fisherman's house.
Our house in Skinopi was built into the rocks, with our private stairs to the Aegean, perfect for an evening swim right after the sunset. The authentic Greek experience.
Our room with a view to the Aegean. / Our neighbour and his old tiny boat.
Favourite salad: feta cheese, tomato, cucumber and Kalamata olives.
Firiplaka beach, in the south of the island, is surrounded by high cliffs in various colours. / Agia Kiriaki beach is known by the particular 'glass' effect of the water, which is due to the withe pebbles on the shore.
When the Meltemi wind is blowing, it's a good idea to take the road to the south of the island. You will find some of Milos' most peaceful beaches.
Dreamy view from our room in Agios Sostis, one of the prettiest hidden gems in southern Milos. / Sometimes surrounded by impressive rock formations, the waters are shallow and crystal clear. Pure Mediterranean bliss.